Friends – greetings from Beijing… where the mere act of crossing the street is an adventure.
The roads which form the grid of and rings around Beijing are perpetually packed with pedestrians, cars, trucks, bicycles (electric and conventional), scooters, and mopeds, all of which (outside of the pedestrians) seem to have the right of way at any given moment. At major intersections a mass of people will gather on the corner and start to wade across the road. They’re up against drivers, whose approach at the intersections is single-minded: get across the road or make the turn as quickly as possible. Left turns – and the occasional daring and artful U-turn – are particularly momentous affairs, as corners are cut and new lanes are created, resulting in a mish-mash of vehicles pointed in various direction.
Beijing (and perhaps all of China) has a right on red policy which differs from the law in America in terms that no stop is required, resulting in a constant flow of traffic around corners. Since cars have the right of way, pedestrians line up on the corners and wait for a slight break in the stream of traffic – a driver who has brought dishonor upon his family by not following the car in front of him close enough – to fill in the gap and begin to cross.
My crosswalk strategy has been to first make my way to an island one lane into the street – which separates the main road from a lane for cyclists – and then to wade across downstream of the other pedestrians, allowing them to both set the course and to cushion the impact from any unforeseen vehicle. So far so good.
This morning is my last in Beijing after an active and memorable five nights here. I’ve been ably and graciously hosted by Freda and Chris Murck, the parents of my good friend Jen. Highlights in Beijing include a visit to the Forbidden City, curated visits to Panjiayuan Market and 798 Art District, running in (and finishing!) the Beijing Half Marathon, an excursion to the Great Wall, and a number of delicious meals.
My first day in Beijing started early, in time for the sunrise flag raising ceremony by the Chinese Army in Tiananmen Square. The ceremony started at 6:20 am. I think that most in the crowd looked a bit weary and would have preferred a slightly later start time, but – hey – this isn’t a democracy.
Tiananmen is a huge open space, with a couple of monuments in the square and ringed on the sides by government buildings. After the ceremony and a walk around, I crossed the street just to the north to enter the Forbidden City, the home and royal court of various Chinese emperors. While I won’t recount – nor could I do justice to – the history, the scale and detail of the palaces and grounds was remarkable.
Freda escorted me the following day to Panjiayuan Market, an antiques and collectibles market in southeast Beijing. The market’s biggest on Saturday (when we visited), and had a vast array of vendors with jewelry, clothing, porcelain, furniture, lawn ornaments, samurai swords, musical instruments, books, etc. I picked up a vintage Chinese army jacket and a couple of smaller trinkets.
Freda also let me join her on a related trip to an art collectibles dealer in pursuit of an item for an exhibition she is curating for Museum Rietberg in Zurich. She is a Chinese art historian and has studied and written on the artistic renderings of a gift of mango fruit from Mao to workers in 1968, and the subsequent appearances of mangoes in Chinese art. Freda had identified a platter with a drawing of mangos at a local dealer, and I accompanied her to pick up the piece.
Straight from the markets, I met two local Beijingers, Justine and Tingting, whom I was introduced to by Monroe Price. Justine is a university student and Tingting – her sister, is an artist. After a delicious lunch (below), Justine and I travelled out to 798 Art District, a former military factory and settlement which has been converted into gallery and studio space for contemporary artists. Like other things in Beijing, the area was immense, with countless galleries and shops; in about two hours we may have gotten to half of them.
My trip to Beijing has also been the occasion of my first half marathon. My visit corresponded with the Beijing Marathon, which also included a half marathon, a 9 km race, and a mini-marathon (about 4 km, I think). I signed up for the half shortly after booking my plane tickets 8 weeks ago, when 13.1 miles didn’t seem like too far of a distance in my head. What a great way to see and experience the city, I thought.
I picked up my bib and other registration materials at the Marathon Expo in Olympic Park, situated between the Bird’s Nest Stadium and the Olympic Water Cube, What great fortune I had to be assigned bib 24051, which happens to be a particularly auspicious number in Chinese tradition!
The next morning I rose and travelled back to Tiananmen Square, the start site. The square was filled with 30,000 runners between the four events, and Chinese and American music being pumped through speakers helped to provide the crowd with energy. I met and talked with a Malaysian named Ooi, who was in Beijing touring and for the event, and he extended to me an invitation to run in the Kuala Lumpur half marathon in April.
The half marathon runners were queued up behind the marathon entrants, and when we set off just after 9am the main boulevard leading off of the square was flooded with runners in the orange race t-shirt. The first 9 or 10 km were on six-lane wide flat boulevard, and I felt strong, slowly advancing through the crowd and overtaking other runners.
Along the side of the road were spectators all yelling “JIE-yoo,” or “Let’s go!” (literally “add gas”) in Chinese. My guess is that half of them intended to be there, while the other half were caught at the intersection in their cars when the crossing was closed to traffic. (The ultimate Beijing pedestrian revenge?)
After a very pleasant and (I think) fast first 10 km, I slowed noticeably for the next several K. Each kilometer was marked, and water stations were positioned at each 2.5 km, which were helpful in marking distances and breaking up the race. Kilometers 16-18 were particularly tough, and then the prospect of finishing kicked in for the last few km. I finished in 2:03:28 – a particularly auspicious time in the Chinese tradition. It was slower than the number in my head, but still successful for my first half marathon (and first run over 7.5 miles).
Yesterday I travelled to the Great Wall with three Austrailian ladies – Ellie, Ingrid, and Maureen – whom I had met at dinner at the home of friends of Freda and Chris the night before. They were in town for vacation – Maureen and Ingrid from Austraulia, and Ellie en-route back home from an eight month trip through the U.S. and South America. They had arranged for a private car to see the wall in Mutianyu, about 75 minutes northeast of Beijing, and invited me to join.
We arrived at the base of the mountains below the wall and rode a cable car (cabin #7, a very auspicious number in the Chinese tradition) to the top. While bits of the wall were clear from the bottom, and while I was familiar with the scale and scope of the endeavor, it was only when I disembarked from the cable car that the enormity and amazement of the wall became more apparent.
(The feeling that I had was quite similar to when I traveled to the Grand Canyon in 2001. After hearing from many people how spectacular it was, I felt that it would not live up to the hype I had heard. Of course, I was blown away on both occasions.)
At the top Ellie and I headed off for a walk along the wall, which travels up and down the contours of the mountain ridges. As we travelled away from the cable car station (and the slopes became steeper) the crowds thinned out. Along the way we spotted a path down to the mountain base, which we set off on (rather than return through the cable car).
The way turned from a dirt path to a concrete strip to a paved road, and the whole hike down we didn’t pass a single other person, nor could we glimpse the cable car towers – for good reason. We ended up in a small village and came upon a small group of Chinese women who asked us in Chinese, as I could only imagine,”What are you doing here?” It turned out the path we chose landed us about 9 kilometers away from Mutianyu. A minor miscalculation.
Without a lick of Chinese or a functioning cell phone between the two of us, Ellie and I were very fortunate that a lady in the crowd recognized the English words “cable car” and “taxi.”. A villager pulled up in his car and we happily paid the 30 RMB (about USD$5) that was asked of us for the shuttle ride to meet Ingrid, Maureen, and our driver. I think both Ellie and I were glad to have had the experience of the hike and the mini-adventure.
Lastly, eating in Beijing has been quite fun (and delicious), and I’ve had a number of memorable meals.
Justine and Tingting took me to lunch at a restaurant with food from X’ian province, where their family is from. (In the lead-up to this trip, I had been practicing eating Chinese food through lunchtime trips to NYC’s Chinatown, and had familiarized myself with X’ian-style pulled noodles from a shop under the Manhattan bridge.). They ordered a feast of cold noodles and vegetables, braised fish, lamb and carrot dumplings, roasted lamb, fresh bean curd, and yogurt drizzled with honey. It’s the tastiest (and most plentiful) Chinese meal that I could remember.
Last night, I was in invited with Freda and Christian to a dinner of Princeton Graduate School alumni, a club that both Freda and Christian are members of. It was an interesting mix of academics and business type locals and expats in Beijing, and they didn’t mind that I’m a Yalie without a PhD. A specialty of the restaurant – a whole fish flash-fried and served in a sweet and sour style – was brought to our host, Rose, before it was cooked for her review and approval. (Similarly to how a bottle of wine may be presented at a restaurant in the States.) The fish arrived in a metal container; when the lid was flipped back and Rose peeked in, the fish jumped – to Rose’s approval – and was subsequently sent to its fate in a hot wok.
I also dined on Peking duck, the flagship dish of Beijing, at a restaurant particularly well known for it. I was alone for this meal, and had ordered what I thought was Peking duck for one person. In fact I had ordered one Peking duck(!), which was dutifully carried out and carved table-side. I didn’t eat again (apart from the delicious corn ice cream which was served for dessert) for a day.
In between these meals, there have been snacks from shops, bakeries, and street vendors, which are plentiful and cheap.
Other observations on Beijing:
- Most things (food, transportation, attractions) have generally been fairly cheap in Beijing.
- If Hong Kongers dress smart and chic, Beijingers are hip and cool. I don’t know how to describe the style here, but I think most Beijingers on the street would look comfortable if they were dropped into the Lower East Side of Manhattan, while most Hong Kongers could be placed in Saks or a fashionable office at a moment’s notice.
- There’s not a lot of English spoken here. The tourist sites have limited but serviceable English displays and translations, and limited English is spoken in restaurants and some stores. Elsewhere English is generally not read nor understood, and I’ve gotten by with pointing and gesturing and with a handy map supplied by my hosts to give to taxi drivers to direct them to where I’m staying.
- I had been warned before my trip, but the Chinese habit of spitting on the street is jarring. On any street, men (and the occasional woman) will clear their throat and hawk something up. It’s very common and pronounced.
- While obviously these cities could take years to explore and discover, I leave Beijing after five nights feeling that I could easily spend a lot more time here. There are whole sections of the city which I didn’t come close to, and there’s a ton of variety here – between the history, arts, culture, food, business, and politics. While I enjoyed my time in Hong Kong, I didn’t have this same feeling upon leaving.
A special thanks to my very gracious hosts, Freda and Chris, and also to Justine and Tingting for sharing Beijing with me.
Now it’s onto Shanghai – at 300+ km/hr on the bullet train – for four more nights before returning to NYC. I’ll aim to send another dispatch written from my plane ride back home. If you have any tips on or connections in Shanghai, I’d love to hear them in the next 48 hours.